Asian-Style Bridge for Dry Creekbed

Build sculptural interest and a unique walkway for your landscape.

Photography by Brian Francis

General Instructions

Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List and Cutting Diagram as guides and adjusting for fit.

Step-by-Step

Build the floor base and posts.
- Select a site for the bridge. At each corner, level the area and position a paver with paver base underneath.
- Using deck screws, attach the two outer (01) floor joists so that they are flush with the ends of the (02) sills (see Figure 1). Measure diagonally to check for square.
- Position the remaining (01) floor joists 13 1/2 inches from the outer (01) floor joists, and attach them to the (02) sills with deck screws.
- Lay out and cut four (03) posts as shown in the Figure 1 post detail. Tip: To create the 3 1/2-inch-wide by 1 3/4-inch-deep notches, set the blade of a circular saw to a depth of 1 3/4 inches, and cut the two outside marks first. Then make several cuts approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart. Use a chisel to remove the remaining material.
- Using deck screws and working from the centerline, attach the (03) posts to the outer (01) floor joists so that they are 3 feet 10 inches apart as shown in Figure 1.
Attach the floor boards.
- Position each (04) floor board so that the grain curves upward. This will reduce the cupping that can occur as the boards age.
- Starting with the first piece centered on the (01) floor joist and working outward toward each end, attach the (04) floor boards with galvanized finishing nails (see Figure 2). Each (04) floor board should overhang each outside (01) floor joist by 3/4 inch. Make sure that the (04) floor boards positioned at the (03) posts are notched to fit.
Attach the rails and mid posts.
- Lay out and cut the (05) rails as shown in the rail detail (Figure 3). Refer to the tip in Step 1d to cut the notches. Label two of the (05) rails as top pieces.
- To determine the hole locations for the balusters, place the two top (05) rails on a work surface as shown in the bottom view of the Figure 3 rail detail. Scribe a parallel line on the bottom of each (05) rail, 3/4 inch in from the long edge opposite the notches. Locate and mark the centerlines between each notch as shown in the rail detail. Working out from the two centerlines, make a mark on the scribed line at 4 inches and 8 inches in each direction. Note: You should have 10 hole locations marked on each top (05) rail. Drill a 3/4-inch-deep hole at the marked locations with a 3/4-inch Forstner bit.
- Attach the (05) rails to the (03) posts with deck screws (see Figure 3).
- Lay out and cut the (06) mid posts following the post detail in Figure 1. Cut off the last 10 5/8 inches as shown in the post detail.
- Attach the (06) mid posts to the (05) rails with deck screws.
Attach the cross braces.
- Cut the 2 x 4 x 12 into four equal pieces.
- Position one of the 2 x 4 pieces so that one end overlaps where the (06) mid post intersects the lower edge of the top (05) rail. The other end of the 2 x 4 should overlap where the (03) post intersects the top edge of the bottom (05) rail (see Figure 4).
- Scribe the lines of the intersections onto the 2 x 4.
- Cut the 2 x 4 at the scribed lines to create a (07) cross brace.
- Test-fit the (07) cross brace in each of the openings, and if accurately shaped, use it as a template for the other three (07) cross braces. Otherwise, scribe each piece individually, and cut to size.
- Position the (07) cross braces so that they are 1 1/2 inches in from the inside faces of the (03) posts and the (06) mid posts. Toenail the (07) cross braces into place.
Attach the balusters and baluster rails.
- Scribe to length and cut the four (08) baluster rails.
- To determine the hole locations for the balusters, first scribe a centerline lengthwise along a 1 1/2-inch face of each (08) baluster rail. Then locate and mark the center across the rail on the same face.
- Working out from the centerline on each (08) baluster rail, mark the scribed line at 4 inches and 8 inches in each direction. Then drill a 3/4-inch-deep hole at each mark with a 3/4-inch Forstner bit.
- Scribe to length, and then cut the balusters using a hacksaw.
- Insert balusters into the holes in each (08) baluster rail and in each top (05) rail (see Figure 5).
- Attach the (08) baluster rails to the (03) posts and the (06) mid posts with deck screws or galvanized finishing nails.
Apply finishing touches.
- Fill all holes with stainable wood filler, sand, and apply stain.
- Attach a copper post cap to each (03) post with construction adhesive. Allow to cure.

Illustration

Cut List

Part	Material	Size (in inches)	Quantity
(01) floor joists	2 x 6 x 12	1 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 69	4
(02) sills	2 x 6 x 8	1 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 46 1/2	2
(03) posts	4 x 4 x 8	3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 45 7/8	4
(04) floor boards	2 x 4 x 8	1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 48	21
(05) rails	4 x 4 x 6	3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 63 1/4	4
(06) mid posts	4 x 4 x 6	3 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 35 3/8	2
(07) cross braces	2 x 4 x 12	1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 33	4
(08) baluster rails	2 x 4 x 8	1 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 21 1/4	4
Finished Dimensions Height: 48 inches Width: 53 1/2 inches Length: 72 inches

Submit Comments & Photos

Gene Veto, Ohio 18 Nov, 05:03 PM

This is such a cool bridge. I think it could really work for my creek that has water flowing. Whom ever built it, great job!

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