Cat Playhouse

Create a feline hangout that’s sure to please.

Photography by Brian Francis

Cat Playhouse

Want a cozy kitty nook to keep your furry friend happy and active? Try this easy-to-build house that will provide a place to hide as well as a mental and physical workout. Play platforms at different levels give cats perches from which to view their favorite humans.

Instructions: General

Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List and Cutting Diagram as guides and adjusting for fit. Assemble all parts using glue and 4d finishing nails unless otherwise noted.

  1. Build the house.
    • Lay out the door opening on the (01) front as shown in Figure 1. Cut it out with a jigsaw, and sand the edges smooth.
    • Use a compass to mark the 4-inch hole on the (04) left end, cut it out with a jigsaw, and sand the edges smooth.
    • Attach the (03) right end to the (01) front, making sure that the top and bottom edges are flush. Repeat this step for the (04) left end.
    • Attach the (07) baffle to the (01) front, making sure the top and bottom edges are flush (see Figure 1).
    • Attach the (02) back to the (03) right end and to the (04) left end, making sure that the top, bottom, and side edges are flush (see Figure 1).
    • Turn the assembly upside down, and secure the (06) bottom to all parts.
    • Turn the assembly right side up, and attach the (05) top with 1 5/8-inch screws so that you can remove it easily to clean the playhouse.
  2. Add the platforms.
    The platforms are supported by PVC pipeNote: The platforms are supported by PVC pipe cut to varying lengths and held in place with PVC general-purpose drains.
    • Prepare the drains by removing the strainers and using a 7/32-inch bit to enlarge the existing holes in the drains. Be sure to drill completely through each drain to create mounting holes.
    • Cut the 2-inch PVC pipe to the lengths indicated in Figure 2. Test-fit the pipe pieces in the drains, and adjust as necessary to ensure that these parts will line up for level platforms. Swab the parts first with PVC primer, and then use PVC cement to attach a drain to the top and bottom of each piece.
    • Attach the 7 1/4-inch drain/pipe assembly to the bottom of the (08) lower platform with #10 x 1-inch pan-head screws. The assembly should be positioned 1 inch from the outside edge of the (08) lower platform and centered across its width.
    • Attach the (08) lower platform to the playhouse assembly with glue and 1 1/4-inch pocket hole screws (see Figure 2).
    • Attach the 19 1/4-inch drain/pipe assembly to the top of the (08) lower platform with #10 x 1-inch pan-head screws. The assembly should be positioned 1 inch from the outside edge of the (08) lower platform and centered across its width.
    • Attach two 11 1/4-inch drain/pipe assemblies to the corners of the playhouse assembly with #10 x 1-inch pan-head screws as shown in Figure 2.
    • Attach the (09) upper platform to the top of the three drain/pipe assemblies with #10 x 1-inch pan-head screws.
  3. Apply finishing touches
    • Fill all nail holes, sand, and apply a finish. Allow to dry.
    • If desired, attach carpet scraps or doormat material to the (08) lower platform and the (09) upper platform using spray adhesive.
Skill Set: Jigsaw Cutting

Skill setGood jigsaw cuts depend on three things—the tool itself, the blade, and the user’s technique. For the best results, the jigsaw blade should be sharp and should have a well-defined set to the teeth. This allows the blade to turn freely without binding. The binding pressure is partly responsible for any deflection you may experience when cutting lumber.

Set the saw’s orbital action to 0 or 1 for the best cuts. A more aggressive orbit (set at 2 or 3) allows you to cut faster but increases the likelihood of blade deflection when making curved cuts. Be sure to exert only enough pressure to guide the saw—don’t force the cut or “side-load” the blade with excess pressure by trying to steer the tool rather than the blade. In other words, allow the blade to lead the tool.

Cut List

#

PART NAME

QUANTITY

MATERIAL

SIZE (in inches)

01 front 1 plywood 3/4 x 15 3/4 x 24
02 back 1 plywood 3/4 x 15 3/4 x 24
03 right end 1 plywood 3/4 x 15 3/4 x 14 1/2
04 left end 1 plywood 3/4 x 15 3/4 x 14 1/2
05 top 1 plywood 3/4 x 16 x 24
06 bottom 1 plywood 3/4 x 16 x 24
07 baffle 1 plywood 3/4 x 15 3/4 x 9
08 lower platform 1 plywood 3/4 x 16 x 16
09 upper platform 1 plywood 3/4 x 16 x 24

Finished Dimensions:
Height: 28 inches
Depth: 16 inches
Width: 40 inches

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Project Details
Skillset: Beginner
Tools You’ll Use
  • circular saw with a straightedge guide
  • jigsaw
  • miter saw (or handsaw with miter box)
  • power sander and various grits of sandpaper
  • pneumatic nailer (or hammer with nail set)
  • drill/driver with bits, including a 7/32-inch bit
  • K3MS Kreg Jig K3 Master System
  • compass
  • tape measure
  • pencil
  • Lumber*
  • 1 sheet of plywood, 3/4-inch x 4- x 8-foot
Hardware & Supplies
  • 1 box (1 5/8-inch) screws
  • 1 box (1 1/4-inch) pocket hole screws, coarse thread
  • 1 box 4d finishing nails
  • 1 package (#10 x 1-inch) pan-head screws
  • 8 (2- or 3-inch) general-purpose PVC drains
  • 1 (2-inch x 10-foot) Schedule-40 PVC pipe
  • PVC primer
  • PVC cement
  • stainable wood filler (PL)
  • wood glue (Titebond III)
  • paintbrush
  • carpet scraps or doormat material (optional)
  • spray adhesive (optional)
  • 1 quart primer (Valspar House & Trim Primer)
  • 1 quart paint (Valspar Ultra Premium, Filoli Antique Lace 3002-10B, semi-gloss)
  • 1 quart paint (Valspar Ultra Premium, Dark Kettle Black 4011-2, semi-gloss)

*Availability varies by market.

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