Standing Desk

Move freely around a table designed for drafting.

StandingDesk_Hero

With a gently sloping work surface, this project is well suited for writing, drawing, or displaying large-format documents and books. The hinged top provides access to a generous compartment, and the two drawers extend out on side-mounted slides for additional storage.

Instructions:

General: Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List and Cutting Diagram as guides and adjusting for fit.

1 Build the side assemblies.

a. Glue up three pieces of stock to create each (01) rear leg and each (02) front leg.

b. Cut a 1/4-inch-wide x 3/8-inch-deep groove on the inside face of each (03) side skirt, 5 1/2 inches up from the lower long edge as shown in Figure 1.

c. Lay out the top taper on the (03) side skirts as shown in the side skirt detail. Cut the taper with a jigsaw, and sand smooth.

d. Cut an 11-degree bevel on the top ends of both (02) front legs.

e. Using glue and pocket hole screws, assemble the side assemblies as shown in the Figure 1 side layout. (The second side assembly should be a mirror image of the first.) The outside faces of the (04) stretchers and the (03) side skirts are set back 1/4 inch from the outside faces of the (01) rear legs and (02) front legs.

f. Fill the pocket holes with pocket hole plugs.

StandingDesk_0725

2 Assemble the face frame.

a. Cut a 1/4-inch-wide x 3/8-inch-deep groove in the (05) top rail 1/4 inch up from the lower long edge.

b. Using glue and pocket hole screws, assemble the face frame with the (05) top rail, (06) bottom rail, (07) stiles, and (08) mid stile as shown in Figure 2.

3 Build the body assembly.

a. Cut a 1/4-inch-wide x 3/8-inch-deep groove in the (09) back 5 1/2 inches up from the lower long edge (see Figure 3).

b. Using glue and pocket hole screws, attach the face frame to the left side assembly 1/4 inch from the front face of the (02) front leg as shown in Figure 3.

c. Attach the (10) book back, (09) back, and (11) shelf to the left side assembly with glue and pocket hole screws. The (10) book back and (09) back should be flush with the back edge of the (01) rear leg. The (11) shelf should butt up against the (01) rear leg and be flush with the bottom edge of the middle (04) stretcher as shown in Figure 3.

d. Cut a 1 1/2- x 1 1/2-inch square notch on each corner of the (12) storage bottom.

e. Working from the left to the right side of the assembly, measure and cut to length the first (13) glide support to fit between the face frame and the (09) back. Using the first (13) glide support as a pattern, cut the remaining three to size.

f. Using glue and nails, attach the (13) glide supports so that they are flush with the inside faces of the drawer openings in the face frame.

g. Attach one half of the drawer slides to each (13) glide support following the manufacturer’s directions.

h. Apply glue to the grooves in the face frame and in the (09) back, and slide the (12) storage bottom into the grooves.

i. Attach the right side assembly using glue and pocket hole screws.

4 Construct the drawers.

a. Using glue and nails, assemble two drawer boxes with the (14) drawer sides, (15) drawer ends, and (16) drawer bottoms as shown in Figure 4, cutting grooves in the sides and ends to fit the (16) drawer bottoms.

b. Attach the other half of the drawer slides to the drawer boxes following the manufacturer’s directions.

c. To create raised panels on the (17) drawer faces, cut 15-degree bevels 3/8 inch from the edges.

d. Attach the (17) drawer faces to the drawer boxes with glue and nails.

5 Create and attach the top assembly.

a. Cut the (18) top slats about 1/2 inch longer than the length provided in the Cut List to allow for trimming later.

b. Use a biscuit joiner to cut slots for the biscuits, and join the (18) top slats together with glue and biscuits.

c. Bevel rip an 11-degree angle along one long edge of the glued-up top slat assembly.

d. Trim the top slat assembly to 37 1/2 inches wide x 26 5/16 inches long from the long point of the 11-degree angle.

e. Measure and cut the piano hinge using a hacksaw to match the width of the top slat assembly.

f. Attach the top slat assembly to the (19) top shelf with the piano hinge using the included screws.

g. Using a router fitted with a 1/4-inch roundover bit, round over the perimeter edges of the top slat/top shelf assembly.

h. To make the (20) pencil rail, round over two adjacent edges of leftover 1 x 12 x 6. Cut it to length, and then rip off the rounded edge to create a 1/4-inch-thick (20) pencil rail.

i. Position the (20) pencil rail 2 inches up from the lower edge of the top assembly, and attach using glue and brads.

j. Using glue and nails, attach the (19) top shelf centered side to side on the body assembly. The bevel on the top assembly should be flush with the taper on the back end of the (03) side skirts.

6 Apply finishing touches.

a. Fill all holes with stainable wood filler, and sand smooth.

b. Apply a coat of stain, and allow to dry. Then apply a coat of polyurethane.

c. Attach the drawer pulls.



Cut List

PART NAME Qty MTERIAL
SIZE (in inches)
01 rear legs 6* 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 47 1/4
02 front legs 6* 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 42 7/8
03 side skirts 2 1 x 12 3/4 x 11 x 24 1/2
04 stretchers 6 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 24 1/2
05 top rail 1 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 1 x 31 1/2
06 bottom rail 1 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 31 1/2
07 stiles 2 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 1 x 3 3/4
08 mid stile 1 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 2 x 3 3/4
09 back 1 1 x 12 3/4 x 11 x 31 1/2
10 book back 1 1 x 12 3/4 x 9 1/4 x 31 1/2
11 shelf 1 1 x 8 x 4 3/4 x 7 1/4 x 34
12 storage bottom 1 plywood 1/4 x 27 3/4 x 34 3/4
13 glide supports 4 1 x 4 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 27 1/4
14 drawer sides 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 23 7/8
15 drawer ends 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 3 1/2 x 11 3/4
16 drawer bottoms 2 plywood 1/4 x 12 1/4 x 23 3/8
17 drawer faces 2 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 4 5/8 x 14 3/4
18 top slats 12 1 x 8 x 8 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 37 1/2
19 top shelf 1 1 x 6 3/4 x 5 1/2 x 37 1/2
20 pencil rail 1 1 x 12 1/4 x 3/4 x 36

*Three pieces are glued together to create each leg.

Finished Dimensions
Height: 48 inches
Depth: 32 1/2 inches
Width: 37 1/2 inches

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Customer stories
Customer avatarBy:Lowe's Creative Ideas
Posted: December 18, 2009
Customer avatarBy:Lowe's Creative Ideas
Hi Dayna -
Click on the image and you can download a pdf. Then you can zoom in on the details.
Thanks,
the LCI Team
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Project Details

Standing Desk

Lowe’s List
Skill level: Advanced
TOOLS YOU’LL USE
  • table saw
  • jigsaw
  • miter saw
  • drill/driver with various bits
  • router with a 1/4-inch roundover bit and 1/4-inch straight bit
  • power sander and various grits of sandpaper
  • biscuit joiner
  • K3MS Kreg Jig K3 Master System
  • pneumatic nailer (or hammer with nail set)
  • hacksaw
  • metal file
  • clamps
  • tape measure
  • paintbrush/rags
  • pencil
LUMBER*
  • 3 boards, 1/2 x 4 x 4
  • 1 board, 1 x 4 x 10
  • 1 board, 1 x 6 x 4
  • 1 board, 1 x 8 x 4
  • 5 boards, 1 x 8 x 8
  • 2 boards, 1 x 12 x 6
  • 1 sheet of plywood, 1/4-inch x 4- x 4-foot
HARDWARE & SUPPLIES
  • 1 box (1 1/4-inch) Kreg pocket hole screws, fine thread
  • 1 box of 4d finishing nails
  • 1 box (#18 x 3/4-inch) wire brads
  • 1 package of #20 biscuits
  • 1 (48-inch) continuous hinge
  • 2 pairs (16-inch) drawer slides
  • 2 drawer pulls
  • 1 box of pocket hole plugs
  • wood glue (Titebond III)
  • stainable wood filler (PL)
  • 1 quart of stain (Cabot Interior Oil-Based Stain, Gunstock)
  • 1 quart of polyurethane (Cabot Interior Oil-Based Polyurethane)

*Availability varies by market.

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