Tiki Bar

Dress up your poolside retreat with this tropical classic. Lowe's carries everything you need to clean and maintain your pool.

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Imagine entertaining friends by the pool with a custombuilt bar. Although traditional tiki bars are made of bamboo and have thatched roofs, we chose more durable materials including solid oak cabinets, cedar cladding, aluminum-covered countertops, and metal galvanized roofing.

Instructions:

General: Cut and label the parts as needed, using the Cut List as a guide and adjusting for fit.

1 Build the end and front frames

a. Following Figure 1, assemble two end frames using the (01) studs, (02) short bottom plates, (03) short top plates, and (04) joining plates with glue and screws.

b. With glue and screws, assemble one front frame using the (01) studs, (05) long bottom plate, and (06) long top plate as shown in Figure 2.

c. Attach the two end frames to the front frame by driving screws through the (04) joining plates and into the end (01) studs of the front frame as shown in Figure 3.

2 Add the posts and panels, and position the cleats a. Scribe to fit and cut one half of the lap joint for each (07) post. The (07) posts will be joined with the (23) post tops later in assembly.

b. Slip the (07) posts into the opening in the end frames as shown in Figure 4, and secure them to the frames with glue and screws.

c. Prime and paint the (08) inside side panels, (09) side panels, (10) inside front panel, and the (11) front panel.

Then attach to the frames with glue and nails.

d. Position the two (12) cleats between the end frames as shown in Figure 4. This will raise the cabinets off the ground and protect them.

3 install the cabinets and tops

a. Position the 30-inch base cabinet and two 12-inch base cabinets on top of the (12) cleats, and secure them to the (08) inside side panels and to the (10) inside front panel with screws.

b. Temporarily flip the assembly on its front face, and secure the (12) cleats to the bottom of the base cabinets with screws. Attach nail-on furniture glides to the (12) cleats.

c. Using glue and nails, attach the (13) countertop to the base cabinets as shown in Figure 5. Attach cabinet filler strips as needed.

d. Cut aluminum to fit the (13) countertop; spray the (13) countertop and the back of the aluminum with spray adhesive. Carefully position the aluminum on the (13) countertop, and press it firmly in place.

e. Using glue and nails, attach the (14) countertop nosing to the front edge of the (13) countertop.

f. Scribe to fit and cut the (15) bar top to shape, and then cut out the holes for the (07) posts.

g. Slide the (15) bar top over the (07) posts, and secure it to the frames with glue and nails. Attach the (16) bar front nosing, (17) bar side nosing, (18) bar short back nosing, (19) bar inside nosing, and the (20) bar long back nosing pieces to the edges of the (15) bar top using glue and nails.

4 Add the cladding

Using glue and nails, attach the (21) short cladding and the (22) cladding to the panels.

Metal galvanized roofing (above) and aluminum-covered countertops (left) make this a durable structure.

5 build the roof framing

a. From the centerline of the (23) post tops, mark and cut opposing 30-degree bevels on the upper ends. On the bottom end of the (23) post tops, scribe to fit and cut the second half of the lap joint.

b. Attach the (23) post tops to the (07) posts using bolts, washers, and nuts.

c. Using glue and pocket hole screws, attach the (24) ridge to the (23) post tops so that the upper edges are flush with the bevel cuts on the (23) post tops.

d. Following the Figure 6 layouts, cut the (25) rafters and the (26) braces to shape.

e. Attach the (25) rafters to the (23) post tops and to the (24) ridge with glue and pocket hole screws.

f. Position the (26) braces as shown in Figure 6, and secure them to the (23) post tops and to the (25) rafters with glue and pocket hole screws.

6 Add the remaining rafters, and Attach the ridge extensions and the barge rafters

a. Using glue and pocket hole screws, attach the remaining (25) rafters, spacing them evenly along the (24) ridge as shown in Figure 7.

b. Align the (27) ridge extensions with the (24) ridge, and attach them to the (23) post tops with glue and pocket hole screws.

c. Following the layout in Figure 7, cut the (28) barge rafters to shape, and then attach them to the (27) ridge extensions with glue and screws.

7 Add the fascia and purlins

a. Attach the (29) fascia to the ends of the (25) rafters and to the (28) barge rafters with glue and screws (see Figure 8).

b. Attach the (30) purlins to the (25) rafters with glue and screws.

8 Add the roofing and finishing touches

a. Using tin snips, cut the metal roofing so that it overhangs the (28) barge rafters 1 inch on each end.

b. Secure the roofing to the (30) purlins using selfsealing roofing screws.

c. Cut the angle flashing to length, and secure it to the roof assembly with self-sealing roofing screws.

d. If desired, add trim from the leftover pieces of 1 x 6 where the (07) posts meet the bar top.

e. Fill all nail holes, and sand any sharp corners. Apply stain to the completed piece as desired.

Go to LowesCreativeIdeas.com/Woodworkers to download the Cutting Diagram for this project.

Cut List

#	PART NAME	QTY.	MATERIAL	SIZE (in inches)
01	studs	21	2 x 4 x 10	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 371⁄2
02	short bottom plates	2	2 x 4 x 10	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 30
03	short top plates	2	2 x 4 x 10, 2 x 4 x 8	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 25
04	joining plates	2	2 x 4 x 10	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 5
05	long bottom plate	1	2 x 4 x 10	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 68
06	long top plate	1	2 x 4 x 10	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 61
07	posts	2	4 x 4	31⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 581⁄2
08	inside side panels	2	OSB	7⁄16 x 30 x 401⁄2
09	side panels	2	OSB	7⁄16 x 3315⁄16 x 401⁄2
10	inside front panel	1	OSB	7⁄16 x 401⁄2 x 601⁄16
11	front panel	1	OSB	7⁄16 x 401⁄2 x 68
12	cleats	2	1 x 4 x 6	3⁄4 x 31⁄2 x 601⁄16
13	countertop	1	plywood	3⁄4 x 24 x 601⁄16
14	countertop nosing	1	1 x 8	3⁄4 x 11⁄2 x 601⁄16
15	bar top	1	plywood	3⁄4 x 48 x 733⁄8
16	bar front nosing	1	1 x 8	3⁄4 x 11⁄2 x 747⁄8
17	bar side nosing	2	1 x 8	3⁄4 x 11⁄2 x 491⁄2
18	bar short back nosing	2	1 x 8	3⁄4 x 11⁄2 x 103⁄8
19	bar inside nosing	2	1 x 8	3⁄4 x 11⁄2 x 31
20	bar long back nosing	1	1 x 6	3⁄4 x 11⁄2 x 555⁄8
21	short cladding	19	1 x 6	3⁄4 x 31⁄2 x 51⁄2
22	cladding	29*	1 x 6	3⁄4 x 51⁄2 x 401⁄2
23	post tops	2	4 x 4	31⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 507⁄16
24	ridge	1	2 x 4 x 8	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 61
25	rafters	10	2 x 4 x 8	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 343⁄8
26	braces	4	2 x 4 x 8	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 231⁄8
27	ridge extensions	2	2 x 4 x 8	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 12
28	barge rafters	4	2 x 4 x 8	11⁄2 x 31⁄2 x 351⁄4
29	fascia	2	2 x 4 x 8	11⁄2 x 11⁄2 x 95
30	purlins	6	1 x 4 x 8	3⁄4 x 31⁄2 x 95

Finished Dimensions
Height
100 inches
depth
59 inches
width
96 inches

*You may need to scribe one additional part to fit as needed.

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Project Illustration (266 KB, PDF)
Cut Diagram 1 (226 KB, PDF)
Cut Diagram 2 (268 KB, PDF)

Lowe's List

Skill Level: Advanced

LUMBER*

2 boards, 1 x 4 x 6
6 boards, 1 x 4 x 8
16 boards, 1 x 6 x 8
1 board, 1 x 8 x 8
10 boards, 2 x 4 x 8
9 boards, 2 x 4 x 10
2 boards, 4 x 4 x 10
2 sheets of plywood, 3⁄4-inch x 4- x 8-foot
3 sheets of oriented strand board (OSB), 7⁄16-inch x 4- x 8-foot

hardware & Supplies

1 box (3-inch) screws
2 boxes of self-sealing roofing screws
2 boxes (21⁄2-inch) pocket hole screws
1 box of 4d finishing nails
4 (3⁄8- x 41⁄2-inch) bolts
4 (3⁄8-inch) fender washers
4 (3⁄8-inch) nuts
3 (3- x 8-foot) sheets of metal galvanized roofing
1 angle flashing
1 roll (20-inch x 50-foot) aluminum
1 package of nail-on furniture glides
2 unfinished oak filler strips (for cabinets)
1 (30-inch) unfinished oak base cabinet
2 (12-inch) unfinished oak base cabinets
wood glue (Titebond III)
stainable wood filler (PL)
1 quart of primer (Valspar Exterior)
1 quart of paint (Valspar Ultra Premium Exterior, Dark Kettle Black 4011-2, semi-gloss)
1 gallon of stain (Cabot, Australian Timber Oil, Jarrah Brown)

*Availability varies by market. Cedar, redwood, and treated southern yellow pine are appropriate for this project. Some dimensions are available by Special Order.

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