Tapering Jig
Create graceful, tapered furniture legs with this easy-to-use tool.
Project Resources:
Cut and label the parts as needed, using the diagram as a guidea and adjusting for fit. We recommend applying a finish, such as polyurethane, to the jig parts prior to assembly.
Instructions:
1 Build the sled.
a. Measure the width and depth of the miter gauge slot on your table saw. Cut the (01) guide to equal the width of the slot and 1⁄16 inch less than the slot depth.
b. Attach the (01) guide to the bottom of the (02) bed with glue and screws so that
the (01) guide is 7 inches from the edge that is adjacent to the saw blade as shown
in Figure 1.
c. Lower the saw blade below the saw table to test how easily the sled assembly slides
in the miter gauge slot. If it binds, sand the (01) guide as needed and apply paste
wax to the (01) guide and to the underside of the (02) bed.
d. Remove the sled assembly, raise the saw blade, turn on the saw, and slide the sled
assembly past the blade to cut the (02) bed to size.
e. Attach the (03) stop and the (04) back stop to the sled assembly with glue and screws.
2 Attach the anchor bar.
a. Use a Forstner bit to drill a 3/4-inch counterbore 3/8 inches deep and 2 ¾ inches in from each end on the bottom of the (05) anchor bar. (See Figure 2.)
b. Drill a 1⁄4-inch hole through the (05) anchor bar, centered in each counterbore.
c. Insert a 1⁄4-inch washer and the 1/4-inch by 2-inch hex bolts into the counterbores.
NOTE: Put hot glue in the counterbores to secure the bolts. The bolts will form the pivot points for the (08) pivot arms.
d. Use screws to attach the (05) anchor bar along the edge of the sled assembly opposite the blade.
3 Build the fence.
a. Attach the (06) fence face to the (07) fence back with glue and screws as shown in Figure 3.
b. Cut a 15-degree bevel on the end of the fence that will be next to the (03) stop per Figure 3.
4 Prepare and attach the pivot arms.
a. Lay out the (08) pivot arms as shown in Figure 4.
b. Rout a slot 7 5⁄8 inches long and 5⁄16 inch wide in each (08) pivot arm, centered on
the width of the part. Then drill a 1⁄8-inch hole for attaching the (08) pivot arm to the
fence assembly. Round over the end of each (08) pivot arm as shown.
c. Attach the (08) pivot arms to the fence assembly with screws. Tighten the screws,
and then pull them back out a quarter turn so that the (08) pivot arms move freely.
Leave a 1⁄16-inch gap between the rounded ends of the (08) pivot arms and the back
of the (06) fence face for clearance.
d. Position the slots in the (08) pivot arms over the (08) pivot arm bolts, and secure
them with 1⁄4-inch washers and 1⁄4-inch x 20 bar knobs.
5 Prepare and attach the hold-down pivot.
a. Lay out the (09) hold-down pivot as shown in Figure 5.
b. The most accurate way to cut the curved slot is to use a circle-cutting jig along with
a router fitted with a 1⁄4-inch straight bit.
c. Drill a counterbore and hole as in Steps 2a and 2b, and then insert a hex bolt as
in Step 2c.
d. Attach the (09) hold-down pivot to the (05) anchor bar using screws.
6 Build and attach the hold-down assembly.
a. Lay out the (10)hold-down arm as shown in Figure 6.
b. Cut the slot using a router fitted with a 1⁄4-inch straight bit and a fence.
c. To make the tip of the (10) hold-down arm, round over the edges of a strip of 3⁄4-
inch stock using a router fitted with a 3⁄8-inch roundover bit. Cut the (11) hold-down
tip to length.
d. Attach the (11) hold-down tip to the (10) hold-down arm using glue and 4d finish-
ing nails.
e. Place the hold-down assembly over the bolt in the pivot block assembly and se-
cure with a 1⁄4-inch x 20 bar knob. Insert a 1⁄4- x 2-inch hex bolt through the slots in
the (09) hold-down pivot and the (10) hold-down arm. Place 1⁄4-inch washers on both
sides of the slots, and a nylon insert lock nut on the end of the bolt. Do not over-tighten the lock nut; instead, leave some play in it so that the arm will pivot.
7 Build the pin block assembly.
NOTE: This piece is used for cutting more than two tapers on a workpiece.
a. Lay out the (12) pin block face as shown in Figure 7.
b. Locate and drill a counterbore in the (12) pin block face as you did in the (05)
anchor bar, but this time drill a 5⁄16-inch hole. Use this hole to locate and drill a
hole in the (13) pin block back for the bolt. Do not drill a counterbore.
c. Locate and drill a 5⁄16-inch hole in the (12) pin block face as shown in the front
view in Figure 7. Drive a screw through this hole to serve as a pivot for rotating the workpiece when cutting four-sided tapers.
d. Apply strips of self-adhesive sandpaper to the inside faces of the (12) pin block face
and (13) pin block back.
e. Sandwich the (12) pin block face and the (13) pin block back with the (03) and (04) back stop as shown in the side view in Figure 7. Measure the pin block assembly to determine the width of the (14) pin block top. Add 1⁄32inch to this measurement on all four sides, and cut the (14) pin block top to size.
f. Using nails only, attach the (14) pin block top to the (12) pin block face and the (13)
pin block back.
g. Insert a 5⁄16-inch washer and a 5⁄16-inch hex bolt into the counterbored hole and
attach a 5⁄16-inch bar knob.
How to Use the Jig
A TWO-SIDED TAPER
a. Draw a line across the face of the workpiece where you want the taper to
start, as shown in Figure 9. Mark the end of the stock for the desired taper.
b. Position the workpiece on the jig so that the two marks align with the edge
of the jig and the edge of the back stop.
c. Loosen the pivot arm knobs, slide the fence over gently until it butts up fully
against the workpiece, and lock down the knobs.
d. Position the hold-down over the workpiece and lock it into place with the bar knob.
e. Turn on the table saw, and taper the first side.
f. Loosen the hold-down, and rotate the stock away from the blade. Then retighten the hold-down, and taper the second side.
A FOUR-SIDED TAPER
NOTE: To make a four-sided taper you’ll use the pin block.
a. Locate the center of the stock on the end that will be tapered. Then make a
depression with an awl for the screw in the pin block.
b. Mark the start of the taper across the face of the stock as shown in Figure 10.
Also mark the amount of the taper on the end of the stock.
c. Align the stock with the edge of the jig as you did for a two-sided taper.
d. Position the pin block so that the pivot pin fits into the depression in the
end of the workpiece, and lock the pin block in place.
e. Loosen the pivot arm knobs, and slide the fence over to butt up against the
workpiece; tighten the knobs.
f. Position the hold-down over the workpiece, and then lock it into place with
the bar knob.
e. Turn on the table saw, and taper the first side.
f. Loosen the hold-down, and rotate the stock away from the blade. Retighten
the hold-down, and taper the second side. Continue for the remaining sides.